Floating Away in the Dead Sea

March 22, 2018   I am now off the tour and on my own.  How to get to the Dead Sea? Luckily the Tourist Bureau of Israel offers the Dead Sea Shuttle Bus billed as the fastest and most economical way to get to the lowest point on earth from Tel Aviv. It leaves at 6:30 A.M. from a nearby hotel.  I am ready and eager. But wait! Savlanoot, Patience in Hebrew! The shuttle bus picks up  passengers in Jerusalem.  Two hours later, we are still not there. According to the shuttle bus driver, we need to stop at Israel's best felafel place. Happily, we did. That felafel was amazing! My seatmate, Melissa, who reminds me of my nieces starts to chat. She is  from Melbourne, Australia and her parents are Egyptian Christians. She is traveling on her own, brave girl, to check out the Holyland.  When we finally arrive at the Dead Sea, the driver tells us to enjoy ourselves and will be back 6 hours later to pick us up. At this point, I am not sure what there is to do at the Dead Sea for 6 hours plus with my fair skin, I am supposed to stay out of the sun. Whatever! The first order of business is float in the Dead Sea,

I soon realize I am the only tourist ever to bring a swim cap and goggles to the Dead Sea.  I leave them behind  in my locker, but once in the sea, I feel lost without them. All of my swim lessons have been with cap and goggles.  The bottom of the Dead Sea coated with that famous therapeutic mineral rich mud is bumpy and uncomfortable to the touch of bare feet.  I wade further and further out trying to find a comfortable spot. Its too shallow here, too uneven there, Finally, strangely, I am most comfortable quite a bit away from the crowd. Melissa went off on her own ages ago. Ok! Time to float on my back. Oh, no. It is not happening. Will I be the only visitor to the Dead Sea never to float? Of course, I just learned to float back home in swim class about a week ago. Still, this is the Dead Sea, quiet, calm, embracing, salty as hell. After what seems like hours, I lean back and manage to float. Floating, floating floating, face burning under the intensity of the desert sun.  Great! Mission accomplished. Time to stand up and walk back. Uh, oh! I can't stand up. Something is fighting me. I try dog paddling on my back to shore. It works slowly, slowly slowly. No rush. I have 6 hours to kill.  But suddenly, the life guard is shouting at me in his megaphone. "Come back, Come back." What does he think I am doing?" Danger, danger, he shouts." What danger? This is the Dead Sea. That means nothing ever happens or it already did. He is still freaking out as I slowly dog paddle to shore. He finally decides it is time to come in and rescue me, but is clearly  reluctant to get his swim suit wet.  I get closer to him so he does not get  too wet.( I try to be thoughtful even in a crisis).  He grabs my hand shouting "Get up. Get up." I can't get up that quickly. I need to get my balance which he does not seem to understand. He keeps shouting at me to stand up. His Dead Seaside manner needs work.  I tell him I just started to learn to swim. Not sure he understood me.  At last, I stand up. He asks me where I am from." United States, I say. " His unique response. "Welcome to Israel."

People tell me later I was lucky. I floated into a current. I could have floated all the way ` to Jordan. Luckily, I did not know enough to be afraid. Next time, I will take a tour where the guide gives more information.
During the time left at the Dead Sea, I go to the Ahava Beauty Store twice, buy postcards, and find Melissa. We sit under a canopy and watch the scene. Muslims and Jews convene to enjoy the Dead Sea. To specify, Muslim men and Jews convene to enjoy the Dead Sea. The men are in swim trunks floating, playing, laughing. The women are in full burka separated with the children. Suddenly, Melissa and I notice a woman in full burka and shoes entering the sea holding her teenage son's hand.
He helps her to float on her back. She is clearing loving the experience. I am moved by her courage and spirit. I am saddened that such a simple pleasure is not readily approved. But another woman, also in full burka and shoes follows her. Yes!  Feminism  floats and triumphs at the Dead Sea.